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The Most Perfect Fall Aesthetic: Dark Academia

Written by Helen Boogzel

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Posted on October 01 2024

dark academia aesthetic

The weather is crisp, we’ve gone back to school, we’ve started the yearly Gilmore Girls rewatch, pumpkin spice lattes have returned…wake up, babe, it’s time to pull out your plaid skirt and sweater vest to make a cute Dark Academia outfit. 


Dark Academia is not a new aesthetic, by any means, but it is a versatile one, and a durable one. In fact, I’d almost call it timeless. It's cute, it's school-appropriate, it suits everyone, and it borrows a lot of classic elements you may already have in your wardrobe. Sustainable!


Plus, it has since spawned multiple adjacent, but distinct aesthetics, such as Light Academia - academia, but make it light - or even Darkest Academia - you guessed it: academia style, but in darker colors, mostly black or dark gray. Thus, it's not a style limited to the year 2020 or whenever it started gaining traction, because it keeps being reinvented, refreshed and renewed. 

What's The Inspo Behind the Dark Academia Aesthetic?

No points awarded for guessing that Dark Academia is inspired by...academia. In addition to taking major inspiration from classic ivy league style - plaid, tweed, wool, elbow patches, chunky knits, dark colors - it also borrows from British prep and "old money" country style. Think what princess Diana would have worn as a teen at her country home. It's all about layering and visible textures.

If we're looking at media inspiration, Gossip Girl nostalgia cannot be ignored, and their spin on trust fund teen, quasi ivy league uniforms were a big influence on this generation's sartorial dreams, when it comes to academic outfits. 


Rory Gilmore's Chilton uniform is also a big source of inspo. The plaid skirts, the matching ties, the knee socks - they planted the Dark Academia seed within Millennials and Gen Z way back in the 2000s. 


But more recently - or perhaps, just more specifically, we have to look at The Secret History for hints of where this aesthetic may have gotten inspiration. This Donna Tartt classic has been fuelling our Dark Academia imaginations for the past couple of years, and between booktok and fan casting, this immensely popular novel has launch not just a new generation of readers, but a whole-ass aesthetic in Dark Academia. 

What Are The Core Elements of the Dark Academia Aesthetic?

Like all aesthetics, there are some core elements that you'll find across this style and in various outfits. While this aesthetic is not limited to just these common pieces, they are indeed the foundation for a lot of distinctive or recognizable Dark Academia outfits. 

Plaid

Classically British, classically academia, plaid is inescapably preppy. Present on blazers, pants, skirts, scarves, coats - anything short of shoes, really - plaid is a pattern that's as classic as it is neutral. You can never go wrong with plaid; in fact, you can even mix plaids and still end up with a fashionable fit. 


But generally, including a pattern can elevate, improve, or otherwise save a drab outfit. Think about a completely solid-colored, monochrome fit with a plaid element. Instant Dark Academia, just add plaid!


Honorable mention: houndstooth, tartan, check - the academic style owes a lot to patterns, and these are the pillars of wool garments so often encountered with Dark Academia


Moody Colors

"Moody" is the word du jour with Dark Academia, not just in terms of color palettes, but in every aspect of this aesthetic. Black is, of course, always chic, but with Dark Academia, it's actually more about the earth tones. Browns, greens, taupes, burgundy and navy shades - they're all classically academic - with guest appearances from creams and whites. 


The darkest shades in the spectrum, and mainly all black looks, are relegated to a sister aesthetic aptly named Darkest Academia. Yes, there's a difference. 



Blazers

I bet that when you hear "Dark Academia" you automatically think of blazers. It is the most obvious reference. A stuffy old professor in a wool patterned blazer with elbow patches. That's the stuff. 


You can take the British Professor-core angle to its obvious conclusion and add some matching trousers and a shirt - it's hot and very Dark Academia. Or you can pair a skirt, a dress, a pinafore - even shorts - under your blazer. 


it also layers beautifully on top of contrasting turtlenecks, so consider that option for winter.

Turtlenecks

Turtleneck sweaters, especially dark colored, are absolute staples of Dark Academia, because they're moody, elegant, and they serve as a great base for the other iconic elements of this style, like all the plaid and the pleats. They're more visually striking elements, so they need a more grounding item like a plain, dark turtleneck.


It's chic, it's versatile, and it's timeless, so it's a piece you won't just use for your Dark Academia outfits. It can work in virtually any wardrobe and paired with almost any piece. You can wear it by itself, you can layer it under a dress or under a crisp white shirt for more visual interest. 

Pleated Skirts

Indisputable staple of the Dark Academia genre, the pleated skirt does a lot of heavy lifting when it comes to visually signifying a preppy, academic outfit.


Mini or midi, solid colored or tartan, pleated skirts of all varieties are extremely versatile and appropriate for a plethora of ages, styles, and occasions. I challenge you to come up with a list of places where a slim black turtleneck and a chic pleated skirt paired with mary-janes would be inappropriate, I'll wait. 

Accessories: Ties, Socks, Tights, Hats

But like most styles or aesthetics, it's the details and the accessories that make the look. A plaid blazer by itself does not Dark Academia make. So, then, what else can we put on to give it that ivy league flair? 


Ties, ties, ties! Solid or patterned, classic menswear or Catholic school style, ties can add much needed visual interest, a layering effect, and a more academic vibe. 


Hats can shoulder some of the fashion weight here, as well. Wool berets go beautifully with a gorgeously tailored wool coat and a cute skirt. 


Socks and tights are also irreplaceable and serve the same kind of purpose as ties when it comes to layering. But they also serve a very real practical purpose: fall and winter are cold seasons and skirts are not the most insulating items of clothing!!

Layering

Since it's a quintessentially fall aesthetic, Dark Academia is all about the cozy, sturdy materials and more importantly, layering. Those university halls are incredibly drafty, so you need to power clash those plaids and houndstooth like they're going out of style. 


A blazer over a vest over a sweater over a shirt, ideally with all the layers visible. The secret to layering is to increase the thickness and firmness of the fabrics as you move towards the outer layers. So, you have a basic oxford cloth shirt, with a knit vest on top, and on top of that, a tweed blazer. On top of that, still, a sturdy wool coat. Make all of these layers patterned, if you dare, for a really playful, semi-maximalist take on Dark Academia. 

Shoes: Oxfords & Loafers & Mary-Janes, Oh My!

By far the most academic shoe out there, oxfords complete any Dark Academia outfit to perfection. Like most clothes in academia styles, oxfords are borrowed from menswear, and really shine stylistically when paired with classic menswear inspired pieces. Trousers, crisp white shirts, blazers. Or more casual, with sweaters. 


But since evolving into mainstream, the humble oxford has also successfully been paired with skirts and dresses, both long and short. A special mention has to be made for heeled oxfords, a staple of academia styles for women. 


Loafers are up there as ideal Dark Academia shoes, as well, because of the masc inspiration, but there's something about a mary-jane that's so sweet and demure, but also weirdly subversive. 


You can stick to the classic flat mary-jane, but you don't have to; chunky, platform styles are incredibly popular, and can transform a good girl outfit into an edgy, bad girl outfit. 

Chunky Knits

Libraries in old, cavernous universities are notoriously draft, and England is not exactly a warm, sunny resort. So it makes sense why chunky knits are a staple of British fashion, and thus, a pillar of Dark Academia-core. 


You can incorporate knits as nice wool sweaters, preferably with a crisp collared shirt layered underneath for a collegiate look. But you can also play with knits with a cardigan - a cardi can be very Dark Academia, as long as you make it nice and crisp, boxy, and in an earthy color. 

Satchel Bags

There is no bag more appropriate for Dark Academia than a satchel. Battered, sturdy, collegiate, and roomy enough to carry books, pens, and your favorite lipgloss, a satchel bag is another piece that is very masculine. If you think about it, it's like a sort of briefcase for people who read. But like, cute. 


It's super practical, as you can carry it in your hand, on your shoulder, or get a backpack version. And it comes in a variety of gorgeous leather types - black, natural shades of brown, and even cute pastel colors, and they can all be found at British heritage companies. 

Cute Dark Academia Outfits for Fall

You've learned the history, you've watched the shows, you've read the books, and you've taken notes on key pieces, like a veritable academic star. Now it's time to put all that knowledge into practice and create some bangin' Dark Academia outfits. 

Shirt + Vest + Pants + Loafers

A classic menswear look, you can't go wrong with this basic academia-flavored look. A white oxford shirt makes a great base for almost any Dark Academia fit, but it's particularly good paired with a vest, knitted or not. 


Put on some trousers in a color that's complimentary, but not too similar if you want to highlight both your top and bottoms. Finish off the look with a hefty belt and some quality loafers in a matching leather. Remember that your bag should also match - if you're doing brown belt and shoes, then the bag should also be brown, not black. It keeps things cohesive. 

Skirt + Turtleneck + Oxfords

A patterned skirt paired with a neutral turtleneck is a super cute outfit idea that's suitable for a multitude of occasions, from going to school to studying in the library, meeting the parents, going out for coffee...I wouldn't necessarily wear it to the Eras Tour, but other than that, it's a pretty versatile base fit. 


You have a lot of wiggle room with footwear, and that can push the outfit into a really preppy direction, give it a classic academia vibe, or turn it into Fran Fine cosplay. Whichever option you choose will look equally hot. 

Blazer + trousers + loafers

A classic menswear-inspired outfit, pairing a blazer and a pair of trousers together sends one message: I mean business. Power outfits come in all shapes, and that can mean a hot dress and heels, or a Dark Academia power outfit with shoulder pads and scratchy wool. 


You can make this simple, or you can work on your layering skills. Layering is very Dark Academia coded - after all, it's THE fall aesthetic - so if you want to kick this up a notch, layer a slim turtleneck and a shirt under your blazer. Instantly elevated and sophisticated. 

Midi skirt + sweater + oxfords

The humble midi skirt is the trend that does not stop. And yes, you can make it work for the Dark Academia aesthetic. Imagine a plaid midi paired with boots, or mary-janes. 


In cold weather, any outfit featuring a skirt should be completed with tights, but if you're one of the lucky ones with a warm fall, you can inject some extra Dark Academia by pairing visible socks with your oxfords. 

Pleated skirt +shirt + vest

Perhaps it's too on the nose, but a classic uniform-inspired outfit is quintessentially Dark Academia - keyword "academia". There are more subtle ways to do Dark Academia for those of you who are more lowkey, who feel costume-y wearing a uniform, or who prefer a sleeker, more elegant style. I, for one, LOVE a uniform and I'll keep beating this dead horse as long as I look cute in a short pleated skirt. 


Now let's talk about how versatile a knitted vest is. I know it was huge around 2020 and people thought it was too trendy and it would never last, but look at it, years later, you can still pair it with endless other pieces to achieve different types of looks. A more masculine Dark Academia that borrows from that collegiate professor who smokes a pipe type style, or on the contrary, the student uniform style that's so, so cute. 

Pinafore + Shirt + Loafers

We love dresses at Boogzel Clothing, because they're so versatile. A nice fall-winter pinafore can be worn in a million different ways, and they all fit nicely within the Dark Academia aesthetic. 


The classic pairing is with a contrasting white shirt, what you can very easily put a slim fit turtleneck under it for a slightly different, darker, moodier look. 


Shoes can be traditional saddle shoes, loafers, mary-janes, boots...the possibilities are endless. 

Dark Academia may very well be the ultimate aesthetic, it's one of the first, alongside Cottagecore. It's very versatile, and who isn't in love with that British, Harry Potter-y, academic aesthetic? Here at Boogzel Clothing, we're utterly obsessed with Dark Academia

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